It must be hard to be Maria Grazia Chiuri right now. Her blue inspired collection for DIOR has had some mixed reviews from the Fashion Elite Squad.
It wasn’t feminine enough, its runway was ageist and it was far too Italian Sportswear inspired!
It’s not easy to be a designer in these times. If you consider the female collections alone, you have got at least four to think about, five if you incude Couture. Fall, Pre-Fall, Spring and Resort. Talk about zapping our designers of inspiration. Not only that, if you are working for a big name label you have also got a brand heritage to contend with, while also trying satisfy your own creative genius. This is coupled with being Instagram cool and relevant, considering that when we actually get to wear the collection, it is no longer relevant.
See Now, Buy Now, also means that as soon as that first model steps on the runway it’s already out of fashion. The current “instant” culture we live in means we want it when we want it and we expect it to be NEW, NEW, NEW! I do believe that it is genuinely hard to create anything new, without it being completely outlandish.
So let’s get back to this collection. Here’s what I think (not that anyone necessarily cares).
Dior is renowned for its femininity and this collection has been accused of not being feminine enough. I don’t agree with this. I think that the idea of femininity has changed. Chiuri is speaking to a modern femininity, one of comfort and style. It’s an attempt at redefining femininity. We don’t need the colour pink, bows, hearts and sparkles to feel feminine. She has reclaimed the colour blue, which has always been associated with the masculine, doing a complete collection in navy blue, peppered with black and white.
I felt there was a strength to this collection that inspired me, yet a softness in the flowing hair, sheer fabrics and delicate jewellery. Chiuri attempted to be relevant and aims at dressing the modern woman. The smell of revolution fills the air, after the controversial election of Donald Trump as the American President and the modern beliefs his policies challenge. Here is Chiuri’s nod to the “relevant”. The soon to sell-out black beret may have seemed a little over the top, but you know you have already mentally styled it!
She may not have pleased her fashion critics, but I think she will have gained a few (1,000) new followers for the DIOR squad.
So what’s next?